A Walkable Taste of Modena
We arrived in Modena just before lunch and checked into Salotto delle Arti, a beautifully restored boutique hotel in the heart of the city. With its art-filled interiors, warm hospitality, and perfect location, it instantly felt like the right place to pause and reset before a day full of food and discovery.
Before the day’s big event — our dinner reservation at Francescana — we spent the afternoon exploring Modena’s rich and surprisingly compact food scene, all within walking distance from our hotel.
First stop: Bar Tiffany, a local spot made famous by Somebody Feed Phil, known for its light, crisp pillows of gnocco fritto. Served warm with slices of prosciutto, it was the kind of snack that makes you pause mid-bite — simple and perfect.
From there, we wandered to Mercato Albinelli, Modena’s historic covered market. Even just walking through was a joy — stalls overflowing with fresh pasta, wheels of Parmigiano, wild mushrooms, and seasonal produce. The energy here felt local and lived-in — no frills, just real food and real people.
We sampled Parmigiano Reggiano — nutty, salty, aged to perfection — and followed it with a stop at La Consorteria 1966, a small shop specializing in traditional balsamic vinegar. We tasted a few aged varieties straight from the spoon — sweet, rich, and unlike anything we’d ever poured from a bottle. It was one of those travel moments you can’t capture in a photo, but you’ll never forget the taste.
And then, unexpectedly, we stumbled into the Modena Chocolate Festival — rows of stalls set up throughout the piazzas, the air filled with the smell of melted cocoa and roasted nuts. We hadn’t planned for it, but it became one of the sweetest surprises of the day. We tried artisan truffles, warm drinking chocolate, and bought a few bars to take home. It was festive, local, and full of joy.
Dinner at Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia
By early evening, we headed out of the city center and made the 15-minute drive into the countryside to arrive at Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia — the country estate restaurant from world-renowned chef Massimo Bottura. The setting felt both luxurious and warm — modern design nestled in old stone, surrounded by gardens and art.
The meal? Hard to put into words.
Each course felt like a conversation — between tradition and reinvention, art and emotion. Bottura’s storytelling through food was clear in every bite: playful, thoughtful, and deeply rooted in the land around us. It wasn’t just a dinner; it was an experience.
Mont Saint Michel
An oyster reimagined — delicate, briny, and clouded in cream with icy green granita and roe pearls that danced like sea foam. A taste of the sea, plated like a sculpture.
Riso Camouflage
Camouflage, but edible — a risotto painted in game, forest, and earth tones. Think hare ragù, chlorophyll, and black truffle, each bite a surprise hiding in plain sight. A dish that makes you look twice, then taste three times.
Pasta al Pesto in Abstract
A swirl of basil air, pine nuts, and Parmigiano depth — no noodles in sight, yet somehow pure pesto soul. Bright, cool, and completely unexpected.
Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano
One ingredient, five ways — warm, cold, airy, creamy, crisp. An ode to Parmigiano through the lens of memory, invention, and obsession. One of Bottura’s most brilliant signatures.
The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna
That one perfect corner bite — stretched into a dish. Caramelized edges, creamy béchamel, bold ragu, and sheets of crisp pasta standing tall. Nostalgia, texture, and joy, all stacked into a single bite.
Beautiful Psychedelic, Spin Painted Veal
Charcoal-grilled veal, glazed in flavor, served over a canvas of color. Inspired by Damien Hirst, painted with beets, carrots, herbs, and emotion. A dish that blurs the line between plate and palette.
Autumn in New York, Winter in Modena
A cherry that isn’t a cherry. A dessert that feels like two cities, two seasons, and a whisper of nostalgia. Sweet, sharp, and quietly emotional — the turning point between courses and moods.
Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart
What happens when a perfect dessert hits the floor? Bottura turns the accident into art — a deconstructed tart splattered across the plate with intention and joy. Imperfection has never tasted so good.
Surprise Surprise
Tiny tortellini swimming in a delicate Parmesan cream — a humble, comforting finish after a night of conceptual brilliance. A quiet return to tradition, and a reminder that the simplest things often leave the deepest impression.
One Last Sweet Surprise
Just when we thought it was over… A final parade of playful bites — powdered fritters, citrus-laced puffs, and dreamy filled brioche — served after “Surprise Surprise.” Because dessert deserves an encore.
Modena gave us a taste of Italy we’d never had before.
Honest. Local. Imaginative. And delicious from start to finish.